Some things just cannot be rushed. But, distractions aside, I am slowly moving forward with the Kyeamba creek bridge build.
Building up the concrete “plinth” that supports the ends of the Kyeamba creek bridge timber spans was done with layers of 3mm MDF. After sanding, this was glued to the abutments, and then painted with Floquil concrete. A layer of 3mm basswood was then glued to the top of the subroadbed pine. The wooden timbers were then glued to the top of the plinth, and the top of the abutment.
This subroadbed pine was cut to accommodate the existing timber abutment for the unnamed creek.
|The track embankment between the two bridges. I have already added a section of basswood to bring the height of the embankment up a bit - so the later cork layer will be at the correct (I hope) height|
After some adjustments, the base was ready for the Kyeamba bridge deck.
As my recovered bridge deck was only 4 spans, an extra span at each end was added. I did have some additional stained timber in the Ironbark models kit box, however, this would only give me one span. For the extras, I used 12” square North-eastern stripwood. However, this led to another problem – matching the stain. For the life of me, I cannot recall what stain I used almost 30 years ago. The Ironbark kit instructions mentioned a combination of Floquil “driftwood” and “walnut”, not that I had those at the time, or now. So I made up a concoction myself from thinned down floquil paints, but it didn’t really match. As my bridge will be viewed from one side only, I used my older stained timbers on the viewing side, and the newer mis-stained timber on the other side.
|The two bridge decks, after adding the extra spans|
Some trimming of the bridge timbers to fit the gap between abutments, and time to start on the detailing
The kit supplied Grandt line 1” Nut Bolt Washer (NBW) castings. These castings were painted rust, and holes drilled in the bridge deck – top and bottom. Whilst fiddly, it actually doesn’t take a huge amount of time. Good lighting, steady hand, comfy chair, and good music to listen to is suggested. My method is to fit a 0.6mm drill bit into an Archimedes pin vice drill, and a few seconds later, the hole is made. After making half a dozen holes, transfer some PVA glue on the point of an ordinary pin to the hole. Hint. I use the point of the pin to make the hole entrance slightly larger, and this also leaves a ring of glue around the hole entrance. I use tweezers to transfer the casting. Push the casting home, and the glue dries. Repeat the process until all NBW are installed
|Bottom of the span. Note the rebates in the corbels for the piers|
|Top of the span, also showing the Grandt Line NBW castings. The original plastic colour is black.|
Sleepers are glued into the spaces between the NBW castings
|The sleeper spacing is every 5mm - so getting the NBW castings drilled into the timber at the right spacing is fairly important. Even so, there is still a lot of variation in my done by hand drilling.|
New timber piers were made. Again, I did not have enough stained timber to make all the new piers, and it was not possible to disassemble the exiting piers, as they were already cut for the now incorrect cross bracing.
I raided my supply of timber, and found some dowels (OK meat skewers) of almost the correct scale 12” diameter . These were distressed with the saw blade, and then stained using a different method, which worked really well, far better than my original staining method. I may have to re-stain my original bridge timbers to match.
The deck was again fitted between the abutments, and measurements taken for the 2 main piers that will attach to the timber base. Shaping and fitting the piers into the jig was the easy part – cutting out the slots for the cross bracing was not. Fortunately, the Kyeamba bridge only has cross bracing on 2 piers.
After completion of the pier, which included fitting yet more NBW castings to each joint, the pier was installed onto the bridge deck, returned to the bridge abutment base, and checked. All OK, the pier was glued.
There is much repetition now for the next lot of piers. Then I have the unnamed creek trestle to finish, followed by the landscaping. I keep telling myself this is a hobby.
Stay sane, build a model.